Farm Yarns

Amato Vino

Meet Brad Wehr, a winemaker committed to community, craft and country

Wine is woven deeply into the fabric of Australian culture—whether it’s a robust Shiraz from the Barossa or a crisp Sauvignon Blanc from Western Australia, wine accompanies our meals, marks our celebrations, and, for many, forms the cornerstone of their livelihoods. But how often do we pause to consider the deeper impacts behind that glass? From the way grapes are grown to the intricate processes of winemaking and distribution, every step has a profound influence on our landscapes, water resources, biodiversity, and even our personal health.

More than just tradition; wine-making is a powerhouse of an industry here in Australia. In 2023 alone, 150,000 hectares of vineyards yielded 1.32 million tonnes of grapes, culminating in a remarkable 450 million litres of wine. That’s a lot of vino! Behind these numbers stand around 2,156 wineries and 6,000 grape growers, together employing over 150,000 people. Altogether, the industry contributes an astounding $45 billion annually to the Australian economy. Big numbers, indeed! Yet, beyond the figures lies a web of lives, landscapes, and livelihoods shaped by this intricate craft.

Most of the wine we enjoy today is produced with the aid of chemicals—herbicides, pesticides, and synthetic fertilisers, used to varying degrees depending on the grower, region, and grape variety. While these practices are still common, there has been a shift: as technology advances and growers increasingly understand the vital link between soil health and wine quality, chemical use has begun to decline. Even so, commercial winemaking processes still typically involve additives, with sulphur dioxide being the most common, along with other chemicals for balancing acids and fining.

For this next Farm Yarn we travelled to Margaret River on Western Australia’s south coast, where we connected with a winemaker committed to minimising or eliminating chemicals altogether—a practice often called “natural” or “low-intervention” winemaking. This approach is less of a new trend and more a revival of ancient agricultural practices, rooted in respect for nature’s rhythms. These wines embrace natural fermentation, minimal intervention, and organic or regenerative principles in grape growing, creating an authentic expression of the land.

Enter Brad Wehr—a winemaker

Or perhaps more aptly, a wine artist—behind the label Amato Vino. Brad collaborates with a network of growers who nurture grape varieties using sustainable methods and honour the unique lineage of each vine. His wines are crafted to embody the terroir, letting the climate, soil, and bioregion shape the style and flavour, resulting in a wine that’s an authentic reflection of its environment. Brad does things the old way, the artist’s way, from crushing grapes by foot, to encouraging natural fermentation and acknowledging the variations of every season through his process.

Spending time with Brad and hearing his passion for winemaking—his dedication to community, landscape, and craft—is an inspiring experience. His wines are not just products but reflections of place, process, and purpose.

When you consider your next wine purchase, take a moment to reflect on how it was made and the hands that made it. Beyond its rich flavour and its power to bring people together around a table, each sip holds the potential to nourish your health and care for our country’s precious ecosystems.